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FAQs

That’s a great question! There’s no simple formula to determine if it’s repairable. That’s why we ask you to bring the prop in if you can, or visit our Request a Quote page where you can answer a few questions and send us a photo of your damaged prop.

No. To get the highest speed possible, this may involve sizes or pitch ratios that are unsuitable for the load carrying capabilities or working conditions. Decide what is most important and select the propeller accordingly, or change propellers with boating conditions.

Much more information is needed before an accurate propeller can be determined for your application. You can visit our Get a Recommendation page or give us a call for a FREE propeller sizing.

The “hub” in the propeller protects the lower unit parts by cushioning the shock of propeller impact. If impact is severe enough, this “hub” can slip, and may have to be replaced.

There are various considerations in determining the cost of repair, such as whether aluminum, stainless steel or NiBrAl, along with the extent of the damage. You can Request a Quote or bring your propeller in for inspection.

The edge of the propeller nearest to the boat cuts through the water first, starting at the hub it extends to the blade tip.

This is the farthest point that a propeller extends from the center of the hub to the outer radius of the blade.

The edge of the propeller farthest away from the boat where the water leaves the blade.

The cup on a propeller is designed to help lock the propeller in the water to reduce slippage and prevent cavitation. The cupped area is located on the trailing edge of the blade starting approximately 1″ from the hub extending outward to the blade tip.

This is the face of the propeller blade away from the boat. More commonly called the PITCH FACE which faces the pitch block when being repaired.

This is the face of the propeller blade toward the boat.

The overall width of a propeller.

The propeller turns clockwise on the shaft.

The propeller turns counter-clockwise on the shaft.

Electrolysis is typically caused by stray electrical current. This may be generated by the vessel or may be caused by stray current in the marina or at the dock. There are a variety of solutions depending on the root cause. Sacrificial anodes will help protect the propellers, however the best solution is to find the source of the stray current and stop it.

 It really depends on the individual propeller. Typically, most propellers can be changed 1″ up or 1″ down.

This is the thickest area of a propeller where the blade and the hub are joined together.

The center of the propeller that fits over the propeller shaft.

Exhaust gases flow over the hub and blades.

Exhaust gases flow through the hub to prevent exhaust gases from flowing over the blades of the propeller.

Inner hub bushing made of hard rubber, moulded to a splined spindle to protect the drive train when shifting.

The flared ring used on through hub exhaust propellers. The ACR/Diffuser ring prevents the exhaust gases from backing up on the blades which produces cavitation during take-off.

The introduction of air on the propeller blades resulting from running a damaged propeller, or from sucking air from the surface of the water. A cavitating propeller is actually slipping and produces very little thrust.

The theoretical travel of a propeller through a mass per revolution. Eg: A 19″ pitch propeller moves forward approximately 19″ per revolution.

The pitch is constant or the same from leading edge to the trailing edge of the propeller.

The pitch increases from the leading edge to the trailing edge, and from the hub to the outer tip.

The angle of the propeller blade in correspondence with the propeller shaft.

Blades are angled toward the boat. Commonly used for inboard propellers and small outboard propellers.

Blades are angled back or away from the boat. This type of rake is used to help lift the stern of the boat on take-off, and on top end will help to lift the bow up – improving performance.

The off center development of a propeller blade used to make the rake concave or convex.

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